Ingredient of the month

Extremely popular among major cosmetics groups, thermal waters are on a roll. Their benefits are not only useful for marketing arguments: the evidence of their properties on the skin is overwhelming. [Read more ]

November 8, 2016
Alcohol in cosmetics
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October 12, 2016 Ingredient of the month
A like… Retinol

It is one of the most widely used anti-aging actives, and for the longest time. But if the efficacy of retinol (or vitaminA) has never been questioned, its safety of use and skin tolerance are much more doubtful. Cosmetics brands have taken this into account… and so have regulators. [Read more ]

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July 26, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Polyethylene, a small but sticking bead

It is a cosmetic ingredient that is used in high quantities in many formulas. It has been popular for a long time for its soft feel on the skin and its modest cost, as well as for its exfoliating and film-forming properties. However, its outer beauty is now overshadowed by the inner polluting... [Read more ]

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July 15, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Titanium dioxide

It is part of many cosmetic formulas, usually as a sunscreen or colourant. It is also involved in all controversies on its toxicity, especially when it is used in the form of nanoparticles. Titanium dioxide, as it is designated in the INCI, or TiO2 for close friends, is a widely covered... [Read more ]

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May 23, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Anti-pollution ingredients (2/2)

The cosmetics industry is currently in search of new actives to fight against the damage done by environmental pollution on the skin. The Paris edition of the In-Cosmetics show was an opportunity for ingredient suppliers to showcase several types of them. Alongside shields, mainly based on... [Read more ]

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May 17, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Anti-pollution ingredients (1/2)

Fine particles, exhaust gases, cigarette smoke, heavy metals… whether it be atmospheric or domestic, we are surrounded by pollution every day, and the damages it causes on the skin are better and better known. Driven by the Asian demand, anti-pollution claims in cosmetics are increasing,... [Read more ]

April 14, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Phenoxyethanol (EGPhE)

It is known due its record about its safety, and also because it is very often mentioned as "Phenoxyethanol-free"... This wording is then a selling point... but knows why? A look at this ingredient, criticized, but still widely used. [Read more ]

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April 4, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Cosmetic allergens

They are part of the cosmetic ingredients the most often denounced by the press or consumer associations for their harmful potential on health. They can be found everywhere in all categories of products, in particular when they contain a perfume. 26 of them are subject to a declaration... [Read more ]

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March 7, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Should we stop using talc?

As innocuous as it may seem, talc often triggers controversies within the cosmetics industry, a sector used to polemical issues. And the fact that it has been used for thousands of years will not calm down the debate, as it is now regularly suspected of having carcinogenic effects. Still, should... [Read more ]

© Mibelle Biochemistry/L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
January 11, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Algae to mimic the caloric restriction process: a new anti-aging cosmetics strategy

There is a passion going on in the world of cosmetics for micro-organisms and other bacteria, both those that are found in the environment and those that settle in our human bodies. What new actives can they produce? What interactions can we generate with them to design new skin treatments? This... [Read more ]

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November 10, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Butylphenyl methylpropional: a name to keep in mind… and ban

Its official designation sounds so barbaric, that Butylphenyl methylpropional is often referred to with its main trade name: Lilial. In addition, the toxicological profile of this perfuming substance present in numerous cosmetics seems altogether unacceptable, since the European Scientific... [Read more ]

Fotolia.com
October 13, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Aqua... or water in cosmetics!

Our body comprises 65% to 70% of water (the figure depends on the age or the body mass...) Our cosmetics almost match this figure, or may even be higher in water! Water is very often the main ingredient of all the care and beauty products we daily use. That is saying a lot aout its importance.... [Read more ]

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September 1, 2015 Ingredient of the month
MBBT: an exceptional, but contradictory UV-filter

MBBT, Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in INCI lists of ingredients, is a very specific UV protective agent. It is both a filter and a screen, and efficient against UVBs and UVAs. It is synthetic, but in the nanoparticle form, and considered safe for use in Europe… with... [Read more ]

123rf.com
July 1, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Beauty herbs

Do not think mincing them above your cream jars to bring out their flavours will make you look more beautiful. However, your skin can actually get to taste herbs, as they offer many active substances and other precious extracts. Focus on an aromatic quartet with a cosmetic score. [Read more ]

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June 9, 2015 Ingredient of the month
The ‘CITES’ cosmetic ingredients

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, also known as CITES convention, aims to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival. And this also concerns the cosmetics industry, as it uses a few... [Read more ]

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May 4, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Beauty flowers

How to restore the skin’s rose petal velvety feel? Or lily whiteness? Or magnolia radiance, mallow softness? With flowers, of course! They have not just swept across marketing sales leaflets, they are also everywhere –and much more efficiently– in cosmetics formulas. [Read more ]

March 31, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Marine invertebrates: tomorrow’s cosmetic actives?

The sea is a rich source of cosmetic ingredients. But there are not just algae, sand, sludge, salt, or water in the marine world! Invertebrates, a family of species which gathers most animal organisms living in this environment, might represent a new solution for cosmetic applications,... [Read more ]

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March 9, 2015 Ingredient of the month
When cosmetics are immersed in… vegetable oil!

Can you name at least one category of cosmetics that can NEVER contain at least ONE vegetable oil? … No, really? Not even one? And yet there are some. Only a few, that’s true. Which ones? You’ll get the answer at the end of this article! [Read more ]

123rf
January 12, 2015 Ingredient of the month
Cosmetics are going exotic

Cosmetics are often reproached for being too chemical, not natural enough… And yet there are many interesting opportunities for the industry to transform into a beautiful fruit basket, as faraway countries provide us with so much richness, in the form of vitamins, antioxidants, enzymes,... [Read more ]

123rf.com
December 8, 2014 Ingredient of the month
Cereals in cosmetics: with or without gluten?

Cereals are not only found in our plates. They are also incorporated into everyday cosmetics for the benefits they provide to the epidermis. There are numerous types of them, and they are not to be classified in the same category depending on whether people have an atopic skin or suffer from... [Read more ]

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November 4, 2014 Ingredient of the month
Peanut dressed with ‘oil proteins’

What is sillier than a peanut? And what is more harmless than the oil derived from it? Except… peanut proteins are highly allergenic, to the point that even applying a cosmetic product containing them on the skin may induce undesirable reactions. And this motivated a request for European... [Read more ]