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December 29, 2011 | Cosmetic glossary

Allergens that shall be listed


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It is mandatory to include twenty-six aromatic molecules, especially present in the essential oils, in the list of ingredients, as soon as they are at a concentration higher than 0.01% in the rinse- off products and at more than 0.001% in the leave-on products. This is an advice to warn and protect people sensitized to these allergens, be they synthetic or natural. Note: this list is currently under revision in Europe. This should give rise to a new regulation of these substances.

Impact assessment adapted from the classification Schnuch et al. (2007).

INCI name Origin  Impact assessment
Alpha Isomethyl Ionone 
 Synthetic   Rare sensitizer
 Amyl Cinnamal  Synthetic  Rare sensitizer
Amylcinnamyl Alcohol  Synthetic  Less important sensitizer 
 Anise Alcohol  Synthetic or Natural :
Anise Essential Oil, Tahitian Vanilla
 Rare sensitizer
 Benzyl Alcohol  Synthetic or Natural :
Peru Balsam – Tolu Balsam – Jasmine Essential Oil
 Rare sensitizer
Benzyl Benzoate Synthetic or Natural :
Peru Balsam – Tolu Balsam – Jasmine Essential Oil – Ylang Ylang
Rare sensitizer
Benzyl Cinnamate Synthetic or Natural :
Peru Balsam – Tolu Balsam – Copahu
Less important sensitizer
Benzyl Salicylate Synthetic or Natural :
Propolis
Rare sensitizer
Butylphenyl Methylpropional Synthetic Less important sensitizer
Cinnamal Synthetic or Natural :
Cinnamon – Cinnamon, Hyacinth, Patchouli Essential Oils
Important sensitizer
Cinnamyl Alcohol Synthetic or Natural :
Cinnamon, Hyacinth
Less important sensitizer
Citral Synthetic or Natural
Lemon, Orange Peel, Mandarin, Eucalyptus Essential Oils
Less important sensitizer
Citronellol Synthetic or Natural :
Ceylon Citronella Essential Oil
Less important sensitizer
Coumarin Synthetic or Natural :
Woodruff – Vernal – Sweet Clover – Angelique – Hogweed
Less important sensitizer
Eugenol Synthetic or Natural :
Cloves, Allspice, Avens, Cinnamon, Bay Leaves, Cistus Labdaniferum, Basil, Sassafras, Sweet Flag, Boldo, Cascarilla, Galangal, Nutmeg, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Marjoram, Calamus, Camphor, Citronella, Patchouli Essential Oils
Less important sensitizer
Farnesol Synthetic or Natural :
Rose, Ylang Ylang Essential Oils – Linden – Tolu Balsam
Important sensitizer
Geraniol Synthetic or Natural :
Rose Essential Oil – Orange – Palmarosa – Wild Thyme – Verbena – Lemongrass – Geranium – Hyssop – Laurel – Lavender – Tangerine – Melissa – Nutmeg – Myrtle
Less important sensitizer
Hexyl Cinnamal Synthetic Rare sensitizer
Hydroxycitronnellal Synthetic Important sensitizer
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclo Hexene Carboxaldehyde Synthetic Important sensitizer
Isoeugenol Synthetic or Natural :
Ceylon Citronella, Ylang Ylang Essential Oils
Important sensitizer
Limonene Synthetic or Natural :
Lemon – Dill – Juniper – Orange –Verbena – Neroli – Niaouli – Melaleuca – Lemon – Peppermint – Nutmeg – Myrrh – Angelique – Aspic – Badiane – Bergamot – Tangerine – Bitter Orange – Caraway – Celery – Lavender –Lime
Rare sensitizer

        Linalool

Synthetic or Natural :
Thyme, Lavender, Pine, Bay Leaves, Sour Orange, Marjoram, Peppermint Essential Oils – Lemon – Orange – Wild Thyme – Ylang Ylang – Verbena – Myrtle –  Neroli – Coriander – Geranium – Lime – Melissa – Nutmeg – Lemongrass – Basil – Bergamot – Rosewood
Rare sensitizer

Methyl 2-Octynoate

Synthetic Rare sensitizer

Evernia Prunastri (Oak Moss)

Natural :
Oak Moss Extract
Important sensitizer

Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss)

Natural :
Tree Moss Extract
Important sensitizer






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