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January 18, 2009 | Cosmetic glossary

NaTrue


Label created in 2008 by the European Natural and Organic Cosmetics Interest Grouping, a body of manufacturers of natural and biological cosmetic products, among which number mainly those of the German cosmetic association IKW (Laverana/Will wash, Logocos/Logona, Primavera, Santaverde, WALA/Dr. Hauschka, Weleda). It is granted to a product after examination of a dossier presented by the manufacturer and an audit carried out by a certifier of the organization, intended to verify its conformity with the requirements of the reference ‘cosmetic NaTrue naturalness’.

The first principle of the NaTrue framework dictates that only raw materials which are natural, nature-identical (resulting from the synthesis, but identical to those which one finds in the natural state) and transformed from natural origins, are authorized. It also lists the processes admitted for manufacture, envisages minimal amounts of ingredients of natural origin and maximum amounts of substances transformed in the end products, and defines criteria concerning packaging which must be limited as much as possible, and which can be recycled and conceived, in the greatest measure possible, for multiple uses.

By natural substance, we understand substances which are of botanical, inorganic mineral or animal (with exclusion dead vertebrate animals) origins or which result from mixtures or reactions between them of these same substances, all exclusively issuing from renewable raw materials. Only natural fragrances and essential oils are authorized. Surfactants used must be completely biodegradable.

For preservation, 6 synthetic molecules ‘nature-identical' are allowed: benzoic, formic, propionic, salicylic and sorbic acids, or Benzyl Alcohol.

For transformation, chemical reactions are authorized: hydrolisis (including saponification), neutralization, condensation with elimination of water, esterification, cross esterification, hydrogenation, glycosidation, phosphorylation, sulphating, acylation, amidation and oxidation (with oxygen, ozone and peroxides). Treatments by ionization or recourse to the chemistry of chlorine are prohibited.

Three levels of requirements

Natural cosmetics: The product must satisfy all the general requirements defined by the reference frame and respect minimal content requirements for natural substances and maximums for transformed substances of natural origin, defined for each category of cosmetic.
Natural cosmetics with organic portion: In addition to the general requirements defined by the reference frame, the product must contain at least 15% of vegetable or animal natural substances not chemically modified and up to the maximum 15% of transformed substances of natural origin. Ingredients of vegetable or animal origin must come at least to 70% from controlled biological cultures and/or from a wild gathering. The transformed substances must result from certified biological raw materials.
Organic cosmetics: In addition to the general requirements defined by the reference frame, the product must contain at least 20% of vegetable or animal natural substances not chemically modified and up to the maximum 15% of transformed substances of natural origin. Ingredients of vegetable or animal origin must come at least to 95% from controlled biological cultures and/or from wild gathering. Transformed substances must result from certified biological raw materials.

On the labels, after a frist try with a logo differentiating these different levels using stars, its now a unique logo which can be found, sometimes with the statement to its status.

For further information
See: NaTrue Website
See: Full text of Requirements to be met by natural and organic cosmetics to obtain NaTrue label
See: Certified products database




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