March 31, 2016 Dossiers

Perfumes: the dossier

It belongs to the French industrial heritage and makes women and men dream all around the world. And in an age where consumers demand total transparency, it has been in the hot seat for some of its allergenic substances and well-kept trade secrets. Perfume is all this, and much more… It is a product in its own right, but it is also part of the composition of our cosmetics, which it adorns with its sensory hints. Latest news, Industrial Property, Allergens, Regulations, INCI Names… they are all in this fragrant file full of scents. 

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Related articles [22]
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August 20, 2017 Ingredient of the month
HICC: too allergenic – a fragrance too far!

We know it by various names, including Lyral®, but on cosmetics labels it is officially listed as Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde. Deemed too allergenic by scientific experts, it is on the verge of being banned for use in cosmetic products in Europe. Yet we still see it... [Read more ]

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January 26, 2015 SCCS
SCCS: Vetiveryl acetate is unsafe

During its meeting on 16 December 2014, the SCCS has adopted its Opinion on Vetiveryl acetate. Conclusion: inadequate data which not allow a safety assessment, a genotoxic potential… the substance in not safe for use in cosmetic products. [Read more ]

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May 5, 2015 Congress reports
The sillage of a fragrance

The second Olfaction & Perspectives congress held by Cosmetic Valley, ISIPCA, and the Paris-Ile-de-France Chamber of Commerce and Industry left a lingering scent with its participants. The definition of sillage, the conditions for perceiving it, and the methods available to measure and... [Read more ]

June 23, 2014 Congress reports
The future of fragrance according to industry leaders

From last 10 to 12 June in Deauville, at the biennial World Perfumery Congress, the major players in perfumery came together to take stock of the industry. Amanda Ménage attended the event for CosmeticOBS. Ambiance, challenges, discussions, and key points... [Read more ]

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May 14, 2014 Congress reports
Fragrances and industrial property

How can a fragrance be protected from counterfeit, unfair competition, and parasitic competition? There is a legal tool for this: industrial property. But it is expressed differently according to which aspect of a fragrance is to be protected. Emmanuelle Gourbin, the head of legal and labour... [Read more ]

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April 10, 2014 Congress reports
Perfumes: "Saving Private Allergen"

Is perfumery as we know it today threatened by the Cosmetic Regulation? There is a growing concern in the industry about the latest projects on the European agenda, which involve questioning the use of particular ingredients in perfumery, especially due to their allergenic potential. The FEBEA... [Read more ]

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December 31, 2013 Congress reports
Cosmetic product stability: the sensory aspects

Why and how does a cosmetic product please consumers? How can this aspect of the product be measured, and, more importantly, how can stability be ensured for the criteria that come into play over time, thus ensuring that the cosmetic product is just as pleasurable? Irène Bacle, who runs... [Read more ]

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December 9, 2013 Congress reports
IDEA: another idea of allergens

IDEA is the International Dialogue for the Evaluation of Allergens. The project was started by IFRA in response to future changes in regulations, with the task of better evaluating the risks related to fragrance allergens. Dr. Frédéric Lebreux, of IFRA, presented it at the 11th... [Read more ]

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December 4, 2013 Congress reports
Perfumes: selection criteria

How do you choose your perfume? Which criteria do you take into account when purchasing it? Which information seem important to you? These are a few of the questions that the Ipsos Institute asked 2,000 consumers, men and women, in France and Germany, between April 3 and 9, 2013. Julia... [Read more ]

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October 3, 2012 Congress reports
Cosmetic efficiency, emotionally ups and downs speaking

Clinical assessments, instrumental measures, tests with consumers, sensory analyses: all these methods are used to evaluate the efficiency of a cosmetic product. Well known… and maybe soon outdated, with the coming up of a new method, based on the emotional approach. A method as... [Read more ]

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February 17, 2014 European Commission
Europe: allergens in consultation… and in questions

The European Commission has published its proposed measures designed to enhance the protection of consumers from potential fragrance allergens in perfumes and cosmetics. The measures are now open for public consultation. Is Chanel n°5 perfume to be ban? Are organic cosmetics to be worst... [Read more ]

July 9, 2013 Professional bodies
Perfumery: guidelines to apply the Cosmetics Regulation

The Cosmetics Regulation, implemented in its entirety on 11 July 2013, implies new obligations for the perfumery distributors. In order to help its members understand and put in place these new requirements, the Frenh Federation of Selective Perfumery (FFPS) has designed a series of short... [Read more ]

June 21, 2013 Professional bodies
IFRA: 47th Amendment to the Code of Practice

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has officially notified the 47th Amendment to the IFRA Code of Practice as part of the industry’s ongoing safety program. The association proposes now 202 Standards. [Read more ]

March 29, 2013 Professional bodies
IFRA Updates Transparency List

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has updated its transparency list, which lists ingredients that may be contained in fragrance compounds, to include 180 new fragrance ingredients. [Read more ]

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March 1, 2010 Professional bodies
What is in the "Fragrance" of our cosmetics?

The IFRA (International Fragrance Association), official represention of the worldwide actors within the perfume industry, published at this beginning of 2010 a list of 3163 ingredients which can find under the denomination "Fragrance". A gesture of transparency towards consumers increasingly... [Read more ]

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September 16, 2014 Cosmetics news
Allergens are going digital – what do you think about that?

CosmeticOBS has addressed the subject on several occasions: Europe is working to change the regulations governing fragrance allergens present in cosmetic products. Of special note: more than 80 allergenic substances will have to be labelled in the list of ingredients. The change won’t be... [Read more ]

July 1, 2013 Cosmetics news
An association to secure the Grasse know-how

Grasse, the country of perfume, in South-Eastern France. The Patrimoine Vivant du Pays de Grasse (Living Heritage of the Grasse area) association will be registered on 6 July 2013, during its first general assembly. It wants to support the "The Perfume and its relevant know-how in the Grasse... [Read more ]

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June 21, 2013 Cosmetics news
Women and their perfumes: a survey

Performed by The Fragrance Foundation France, in partnership with the, analysed by CCM Benchmark Institut, the "Mon Parfum et moi" (My Perfume and me) survey, based on declarations by almost 2,000 women, confirms some behaviours, but also challenges the existing paradigms... [Read more ]

Jardins des Senteurs (copyright : Nicolas Gilsoul)
April 4, 2013 Cosmetics news
Versailles launches The Cour des Senteurs

An emblematic place in the history of perfumes in France ever since the 18th century and home to the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum (Isipca), Versailles is still today the meeting place for the world’s greatest perfume creators.On Thursday 25th April 2013, on the... [Read more ]

March 6, 2013 Cosmetics news
Innovation in perfumery, when is it?

March 29th of this year, at the heart of Paris, the world of perfume creates the event with a first meeting on the theme of the fragrances of tomorrow, what break? This meeting is organized by Takayama, in association with the Pole pass and Digital Olfaction Society. [Read more ]

April 12, 2013 Scientific publications
Perfumes responsible for autism?

The hypothesis comes from a Californian team of researchers, who say they prove it: perfumes and cosmetics may play a major role in autism pathogenesis (the processes that cause it). Questioned: the mutagenic, neurotoxic and neuromodulatory substances they contain. The study is released in the... [Read more ]

December 17, 2012 Scientific publications
The special brain of perfumers

Areas (those linked to olfaction) that are more developed, and which enlarge with expertise … Researchers investigated the brains of professional perfumers and of student perfumers. They have found that the gray-matter of "noses" (the "nez", in French), the professionals who designed... [Read more ]

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All articles [7]
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November 22, 2017 Dossiers
Endocrine disruptors: the dossier

Endocrine disruptors are substances which are likely to interact with the hormone system, with implications for health, cancer development, and human reproduction. They are everywhere, in particular in cosmetic products, and they both raise a lot of concern and provoke many reactions, whether... [Read more ]

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June 13, 2016 Dossiers
Sunscreens: the dossier

Essential to protect our skins from the harmful effects of UV radiation, be it on the beach in summertime or in the mountains in winter, sunscreens are, nevertheless, questioned as per their efficiency or their safety. Quite often, debates resurface about the allergenic risks of synthetic... [Read more ]

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May 24, 2016 Dossiers
Nanoparticles: the dossier

Many customers are worried, due to their potential toxicity towards our body. The manufacturers, too, are concerned, as they use them for their many cosmetic properties: they have to face new regulatory requirements ... though they do not have all the needed means as of now. Since 11 July 2013,... [Read more ]

March 10, 2016 Dossiers
Hair products: the dossier

Trends, markets, regulations, actives, treatments, routines, physiology, bibliography… from shampoos to colouring, from new beauty gestures like smoothing to spray masks, major hair care actives, alopecia, and scalp discomfort, find out all our articles about hair and its cosmetics listed... [Read more ]
April 20, 2015 Dossiers
Sensitive skins: the dossier

They are thin and fragile, they get tight and red, sometimes they tingle… and they are not always easy to live with. Sensitive skins are very specific among problem epidermises and require particular care. How to identify them without getting wrong, and learn the first gestures to relieve... [Read more ]

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September 29, 2014 Dossiers
Parabens: the dossier

They stir up controversy since several years in the cosmetics world. They fuel public anxiety. They are a constant food for journalists’ reports; they draw the politicians’ attention to regulate them; they draw the attention of the scientists who study them. They are a recurrent... [Read more ]

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April 15, 2014 Dossiers
Aluminium: the dossier

It is more and more questioned, especially when used as salts in cosmetics. Is aluminium dangerous when applied on our skins? Is it to be more strictly regulated? What are the alternatives for the formulators, as answers to in the increasing worries of the consumers?... [Read more ]