September 11, 2017 Ingredient of the month

Actibiome: the cosmetic ingredient that rebalances the microbiota

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

This novelty is launched by the ingredients supplier Codif. Thanks to the use of DNA analysis techniques, its laboratories have, for the first time in cosmetics, established a microbial imprint of the skin during a period of transient stress. They also identified and characterized the microbiota during these periods in order to propose a solution to treat the resulting cutaneous disorders.

Skin microbiota defines all the micro-organisms living on skin surface. Determined from birth, it ensures skin's health, its homeostasis, and also its beauty. Microbiota communities on the skin contribute to host immune defence through a variety of mechanisms:
• Inhibit pathogen growth: Occupy space and nutrients - Produce bactericidal compounds
• Educate adaptative immunity: Tune local cytokine production - Influence lymphocytes in epidermis
• Enhance innate immunity: Increase anti-microbial peptides production - Decrease inflammatory injury - Strengthen epidermal barrier

But every day, exposed to UVs, pollution or even stress, microbiota balance is threatened and can disrupt, leading to dysbiosis – an imbalance of microorganisms – and skin disorders.

Codif has studied the impact of our lifestyle on skin microbiota on 62 volunteers identified 'without hectic lifestyle' or 'with temporary hectic lifestyle'. The analysis of differences between hectic and non-hectic volunteers showed that the microbiota print of the skin is totally different during a hectic period and dysbalanced, and also that the microbiota diversity is impacted.
• The skin pH decreases
• Skin redness increases
• Complexion homogeneity decreases

Actibiome: the healthy and balanced diet for the microbiota

Whether we are unique, with different lifestyles, it is commonly admitted that we all need a healthy and balanced diet. It seems to be the same for the microbiota.
The solution created by Codif is names Actibiome, a combination of different components aimed to bring a variety of nutrients to ensure the biodiversity and homeostasis of the skin microbiota.

Its composition
• Brown seaweed extract rich in sugars and polyols: sources of organic carbon, the most important constituent of bacteria, they represent a source of energy for the cutaneous flora
• Green micro-alga extract for their amino acids and peptides of sizes between 200 and 3000 Daltons: a source of organic nitrogen that provides amino acids for bacterial growth and synthesis of proteins
• Marine ExoPolySaccharide for communication and protection: exopolysaccharides are known for their involvement in intercellular communication and their protective properties against environmental stresses ; they maintain stable environmental conditions by protecting bacteria against desiccation
• Earth Marine Water with a high diversity in minerals and trace-elements: minerals are involved in many metabolic pathways; this diversity of minerals allows the development of as many different species as possible, with conventional or more specific nutritional needs

The active have been developed in two versions
• Actibiome PE
INCI: Aqua, Maris aqua, Glycerin, Laminaria digitata extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Saccharide isomerate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
Percentage of use: 1%
• Actibiome GPA (Ecocert and Cosmos approved)
INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Maris aqua, Laminaria digitata extract, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Saccharide isomerate, Phenethyl alcohol.
Percentage of use: 2%

The results
Codif's studies showed that Actibiome reverses 65% of genus previously disbalanced by stress vs 35% for placebo and thus reinforces microbiota diversity. The active also rebalances visible skin imperfections and redness within one week. It is thus proven to improve skin health and beauty.

Are consumers ready?

To ensure consumer interest in this new concept, Codif conducted a survey on 540 persons, aged 30-55 years, declaring having sensitive and/or normal skin.

83% of consumers would like to use a cosmetic able to maintain skin's health
They consider that some skin disorders are directly linked to skin's health imbalance:
• Dull complexion for 71% of them
• Skin dehydration for 58% of them
• Skin redness for 35% of them

After describing skin flora as micro-organisms living on skin surface, and promoting its homeostasis and protection
• 93% think that it plays major role in skin's health
• 89% think it plays major role in skin's beauty
• 75% think we should act by favouring flora diversity instead of promoting major species or eradicating less beneficial flora

And Codif also provides an idea of claim: 'Love your Microbiota! It is fra

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
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