August 20, 2017 Ingredient of the month

HICC: too allergenic – a fragrance too far!

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

We know it by various names, including Lyral®, but on cosmetics labels it is officially listed as Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde. Deemed too allergenic by scientific experts, it is on the verge of being banned for use in cosmetic products in Europe. Yet we still see it frequently in formulas, and this could be the case for several years to come!

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February 17, 2014 European Commission
Europe: allergens in consultation… and in questions

The European Commission has published its proposed measures designed to enhance the protection of consumers from potential fragrance allergens in perfumes and cosmetics. The measures are now open for public consultation. Is Chanel n°5 perfume to be ban? Are organic cosmetics to be worst... [Read more ]

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April 10, 2014 Congress reports
Perfumes: "Saving Private Allergen"

Is perfumery as we know it today threatened by the Cosmetic Regulation? There is a growing concern in the industry about the latest projects on the European agenda, which involve questioning the use of particular ingredients in perfumery, especially due to their allergenic potential. The FEBEA... [Read more ]

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January 6, 2017 Recalls of products (RAPEX)
Recalls of products - January 06, 2017

You may have them in your cupboards. Maybe, you use them, still. Beware: they are dangerous, illegal, harmful... and are the subject of a recall or ban by the European sanitary authorities. Underneath, you may find all the cosmetic products targeted by the RAPEX alert system this week: a... [Read more ]

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October 28, 2008 Allergy central
The allergens that shall be listed

It is mandatory to include twenty-six aromatic molecules, especially present in fragrances or the essential oils, in the list of ingredients, as soon as they are at a concentration higher than 0.01% in the rinse- off products and at more than 0.001% in the leave-on products. This is an... [Read more ]

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All articles [86]
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September 11, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Actibiome: the cosmetic ingredient that rebalances the microbiota

This novelty is launched by the ingredients supplier Codif. Thanks to the use of DNA analysis techniques, its laboratories have, for the first time in cosmetics, established a microbial imprint of the skin during a period of transient stress. They also identified and characterized the microbiota... [Read more ]

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June 26, 2017 Ingredient of the month

Triclosan (2,4,4’-trichloro-2’-hydroxy-diphenylether) is an antibacterial preservative that is also used as a deodorant agent. Long criticised for its harmful effects on health and the environment, it has just been – after several evaluations by European scientific experts... [Read more ]

April 5, 2017 Ingredient of the month
So many different waters… in cosmetics!

Water usually makes up over 80% of the cosmetics formulas on the market. Today, several types of water – they are more than mere water – are used in beauty products for their recognized cosmetics virtues, or to provide a hint of exoticism. They are derived from different sources and... [Read more ]

February 1, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Thermal waters in France (2/2)

Extremely popular among major cosmetics groups, thermal waters are on a roll. Their benefits are not only useful for marketing arguments: the evidence of their properties on the skin is overwhelming. [Read more ]

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January 23, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Thermal waters in France (1/2)

The notion of thermal baths and thermal water-based treatments is very old: it dates back to Ancient Greece. As a guarantee of skin beauty, thermal water is flourishing in today’s cosmetics. Here is a special focus on this ingredient between skincare and beauty product. [Read more ]

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November 29, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone: the story of a blacklisted chemical

These preservatives, like many others, regularly draw the attention of the cosmetics media. For several years, they have been cause for worry and the subject of alerts issued by dermatologist organizations or health authorities due to their strong allergenic potential. Now, they are targeted by... [Read more ]

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November 8, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Alcohol in cosmetics

It is usually considered friendly and festive as a drink (if it is consumed with moderation, obviously), but can alcohol keep the same image as a cosmetic ingredient? That remains to be seen… And even if it is used a lot, both the advantages and drawbacks of its presence in our hygiene... [Read more ]

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October 12, 2016 Ingredient of the month
A like… Retinol

It is one of the most widely used anti-aging actives, and for the longest time. But if the efficacy of retinol (or vitaminA) has never been questioned, its safety of use and skin tolerance are much more doubtful. Cosmetics brands have taken this into account… and so have regulators. [Read more ]

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July 26, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Polyethylene, a small but sticking bead

It is a cosmetic ingredient that is used in high quantities in many formulas. It has been popular for a long time for its soft feel on the skin and its modest cost, as well as for its exfoliating and film-forming properties. However, its outer beauty is now overshadowed by the inner polluting... [Read more ]

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July 15, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Titanium dioxide

It is part of many cosmetic formulas, usually as a sunscreen or colourant. It is also involved in all controversies on its toxicity, especially when it is used in the form of nanoparticles. Titanium dioxide, as it is designated in the INCI, or TiO2 for close friends, is a widely covered... [Read more ]