http://www.cosmeticobs.com/news/ingredient-of-the-month/so-many-different-waters-in-cosmetics-4465
April 5, 2017 Ingredient of the month

So many different waters… in cosmetics!

Water usually makes up over 80% of the cosmetics formulas on the market. Today, several types of water – they are more than mere water – are used in beauty products for their recognized cosmetics virtues, or to provide a hint of exoticism. They are derived from different sources and obtained with various catch systems.

It is the end (or almost!) of demineralized water in cosmetics, as several alternatives are now used to enrich formulas.

Sea water / Marine spring water

As regards sea water, it is divided into two very different categories, although they bear the same INCI name (Maris aqua).
Sea water
As its name suggests, it is directly drawn from the sea, at a particular depth, and filtrated to only keep its salt and trace elements.
Marine spring water
This category results from the reappearance of fresh water springs in the marine environment. Consequently, these waters are taken deep in the sea. They are popular in cosmetics for their compositions and often more stable in trace elements than sea water.
They are fossil waters which always keep the same minerality and temperature. They are often believed to have the property of reinforcing the skin's barrier and offer immune-cosmetic actions, thanks to the presence of microbial fragments of the marine fauna and flora.

Floral water

There can be as many floral waters as flowers! They are actually made when the essential oils are produced.
The process is quite simple: you just need to pass water vapour through flowers of your choice, and it is this vapour that will extract a whole series of substances from the petals. Then, the vapour should be retrieved, condensed, and transformed into liquid by cooling its container. After the condensation phase, the final liquid will divide into two parts: the essential oil, which floats, and the water that contributed to the extraction, which remains at the bottom… except there are floral residues in it now.
Floral waters are used in different products, depending on their properties for the skin or perfuming powers.
As for their INCI name, they are usually designated by the flower's or plant's botanical name in Latin, followed by the qualification of the final ingredient in English, together with the part of the plant they are derived from (here, ‘flower'), and the shape of the ingredient (here, ‘water'). Here is an example: Rosa damascena floral water.

Composition waters

This somewhat ambiguous name actually refers to fruit and vegetable waters, which are very widely used in organic cosmetics. They are produced with very particular means.
They can be extracted by dehydration. The fruit and vegetables are put in large steamrooms, and then slightly warmed up until they are dry.
They can also be retrieved by crushing the raw material, and then performing a filtration.
Most of these fruit waters do not have many properties as such: they are mainly used as formulation complements. However, certain more specific extracts, like lemon water, were tested and recognized as offering real skin benefits.
Their INCI names follow the same rules as those applicable to floral waters: the fruit's or vegetable's name in Latin, followed by the qualification of the final ingredient in English.

Glacier waters

Much appreciated for their purity, they are increasingly used in the world of cosmetics. Certain brands retrieve pieces of icebergs that float on the sea water, after they have naturally fallen. Then, the ice blocks are stored at room temperature. Once the iceberg has melted, the water is filtrated to remove any impurities.
Iceberg fishing' is not the only way to take glacier water. There are also land-based sources nourished by melting ice.
They are well-known for being ideal to make the skin breathe, thanks to their composition. As they are very pure, they are isotonic and preserve the integrity of epidermis cells.
Although they come from glaciers, they do not have any specific INCI name. They are only designated by ‘Aqua' in the list of ingredients.

JS

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
Your comments

Please login to see all comments

All articles [86]
© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
September 11, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Actibiome: the cosmetic ingredient that rebalances the microbiota

This novelty is launched by the ingredients supplier Codif. Thanks to the use of DNA analysis techniques, its laboratories have, for the first time in cosmetics, established a microbial imprint of the skin during a period of transient stress. They also identified and characterized the microbiota... [Read more ]

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
August 20, 2017 Ingredient of the month
HICC: too allergenic – a fragrance too far!

We know it by various names, including Lyral®, but on cosmetics labels it is officially listed as Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde. Deemed too allergenic by scientific experts, it is on the verge of being banned for use in cosmetic products in Europe. Yet we still see it... [Read more ]

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
June 26, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Triclosan

Triclosan (2,4,4’-trichloro-2’-hydroxy-diphenylether) is an antibacterial preservative that is also used as a deodorant agent. Long criticised for its harmful effects on health and the environment, it has just been – after several evaluations by European scientific experts... [Read more ]

February 1, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Thermal waters in France (2/2)

Extremely popular among major cosmetics groups, thermal waters are on a roll. Their benefits are not only useful for marketing arguments: the evidence of their properties on the skin is overwhelming. [Read more ]

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
January 23, 2017 Ingredient of the month
Thermal waters in France (1/2)

The notion of thermal baths and thermal water-based treatments is very old: it dates back to Ancient Greece. As a guarantee of skin beauty, thermal water is flourishing in today’s cosmetics. Here is a special focus on this ingredient between skincare and beauty product. [Read more ]

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
November 29, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone: the story of a blacklisted chemical

These preservatives, like many others, regularly draw the attention of the cosmetics media. For several years, they have been cause for worry and the subject of alerts issued by dermatologist organizations or health authorities due to their strong allergenic potential. Now, they are targeted by... [Read more ]

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
November 8, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Alcohol in cosmetics

It is usually considered friendly and festive as a drink (if it is consumed with moderation, obviously), but can alcohol keep the same image as a cosmetic ingredient? That remains to be seen… And even if it is used a lot, both the advantages and drawbacks of its presence in our hygiene... [Read more ]

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
October 12, 2016 Ingredient of the month
A like… Retinol

It is one of the most widely used anti-aging actives, and for the longest time. But if the efficacy of retinol (or vitaminA) has never been questioned, its safety of use and skin tolerance are much more doubtful. Cosmetics brands have taken this into account… and so have regulators. [Read more ]

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
July 26, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Polyethylene, a small but sticking bead

It is a cosmetic ingredient that is used in high quantities in many formulas. It has been popular for a long time for its soft feel on the skin and its modest cost, as well as for its exfoliating and film-forming properties. However, its outer beauty is now overshadowed by the inner polluting... [Read more ]

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
July 15, 2016 Ingredient of the month
Titanium dioxide

It is part of many cosmetic formulas, usually as a sunscreen or colourant. It is also involved in all controversies on its toxicity, especially when it is used in the form of nanoparticles. Titanium dioxide, as it is designated in the INCI, or TiO2 for close friends, is a widely covered... [Read more ]